Junghee, nestled in heart of Seoul, creates one-of-a-kind dishes with unique mix of ingredients

Spicy stir-fried radish kimchi rice topped with cow-shaped "yukhoe," or beef tartare, and green onion served at Junghee in Seosulla-gil, Jongno-gu, central Seoul (Park Jun-hee/The Korea Herald)
Spicy stir-fried radish kimchi rice topped with cow-shaped "yukhoe," or beef tartare, and green onion served at Junghee in Seosulla-gil, Jongno-gu, central Seoul (Park Jun-hee/The Korea Herald)

Ask foodies about the origin of "fusion" cuisine, and they will tell you that chef and US culinary legend Norman Van Aken introduced "fusion" into the lexicon of global cookery when he began serving Caribbean, Latin American and European food at his Florida restaurant Norman's.

Fusion food is where tradition gets a little glow-up and classic flavors get a bold twist. It is a boundary-breaking culinary adventure that blends different flavors and ingredients to serve up dishes that are anything but ordinary. That is why fusion has become a leading trend in modern gastronomy, drawing inspiration from a diverse range of cuisines and giving chefs and restaurants endless room for creativity and innovation.

Imagine a dish where delicate slices of raw fish are wrapped in tangy, aged kimchi ― a bold flavor pairing that is nevertheless unexpected.

If you are looking for flavors that defy cultural expectations, head over to fusion hansik restaurant Junghee on Seosulla-gil in Jongno, central Seoul, on a serene and idyllic stone-walled route in the heart of Seoul.

Samhap, a trio of fermented skate, boiled pork and aged kimchi, served at Junghee in Seosulla-gil, Jongno-gu, central Seoul (Park Jun-hee/The Korea Herald)
Samhap, a trio of fermented skate, boiled pork and aged kimchi, served at Junghee in Seosulla-gil, Jongno-gu, central Seoul (Park Jun-hee/The Korea Herald)

As you wander along the stone-walled path amid lush greenery lining Jongmyo ― a special shrine for the kings and queens of the Joseon era ― you will come across a modern restaurant with a warm wooden interior, nestled among Western-style eateries and pubs.

One of the restaurant's signature dishes is beef rice on a griddle, which is a rich and savory creation featuring spicy stir-fried radish kimchi rice topped with cow-shaped "yukhoe," or Korean-style beef tartare, and green onion. It is also served with a raw egg yolk. Pour that yolk over the top before eating and the heat from the pot gently cooks the yolk, transforming it into a rich, creamy sauce that adds depth and enhances the overall texture and flavor of the dish.

Gamtae tartare, or rice balls mixed with seaweed and topped with beef tartare, at Junghee in Seosulla-gil, Jongno-gu, central Seoul (Junghee)
Gamtae tartare, or rice balls mixed with seaweed and topped with beef tartare, at Junghee in Seosulla-gil, Jongno-gu, central Seoul (Junghee)

Do not forget to enjoy the scorched rice at the bottom of the pot, known as nurungji. This thin, crispy layer of browned rice forms when the rice is cooked over direct heat, adding a delightful crunch and a toasty, nutty flavor to finish off the meal.

Priced at 13,900 won ($10), the dish is not so spicy, making it enjoyable for those who prefer milder flavors.

Junghee's samhap, a traditional trio of fermented skate, boiled pork and aged kimchi, offers a bold and complex flavor experience. The fermented skate brings a pungent, slightly tangy funkiness that is both intense and unique. The boiled pork is tender and mild, providing a rich, savory contrast that balances the stronger flavors. The aged kimchi adds a deep, spicy, tangy kick with a satisfying crunch.

Kale ssambap, rice balls wrapped in kale and immersed in thick soybean paste sauce, served at Junghee in Seosulla-gil, Jongno-gu, central Seoul (Junghee)
Kale ssambap, rice balls wrapped in kale and immersed in thick soybean paste sauce, served at Junghee in Seosulla-gil, Jongno-gu, central Seoul (Junghee)

Paired with seasoned cockles, which have a briny, slightly sweet seafood taste, and cham-namul, or Korean wild herbs, offering fresh notes, the dish creates a harmonious blend of textures and flavors: spicy, savory, tangy, fresh and umami-rich. It is a deliciously layered taste that's deeply rooted in Korean tradition, and it is perfect for adventurous eaters looking to experience authentic and vibrant flavors. Kimchi and seasoned cockles are available for refill. The dish is priced at 19,900 won.

The restaurant's tweak to sujebi, a comforting Korean soup made with hand-torn wheat dough simmered in a flavorful broth, is also worth trying. It has a creamy base and features tenderly boiled bracken, truffle oil that adds an earthy aroma and gourmet touch, perilla seeds that enhance the depth of the flavor and gamtae, a type of edible seaweed that adds a subtle marine taste.

Bracken cream sujebi, hand-torn wheat dough flakes simmered in a flavorful broth with a creamy base, served at Junghee (Junghee)
Bracken cream sujebi, hand-torn wheat dough flakes simmered in a flavorful broth with a creamy base, served at Junghee (Junghee)

Combining distinct culinary elements, the dish offers a fresh yet innovative take on traditional flavors. It is priced at 13,900 won.

For those looking for something healthy, kale ssambap, priced at 10,900 won, could be an option. It consists of rice covered with kale dipped in thickened soybean paste sauce. Also try the gamtae tartare, or rice topped with Korean beef tartare mixed with gamtae, for a flavorful and nutritious experience. It is priced at 11,900 won.

Junghee is open every day from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. The last order is taken at 8:30 p.m.


junheee@heraldcorp.com